JET Programme Series: Shipped - A Hakodate Story - Soraya Kadhir

When I first heard I was being shipped to Hokkaido I envisioned blinding blizzards and days without sunlight. Later I learnt more specifically, that I had been placed in Chubu High School, Hakodate. Hakodate is a port city, situated on a strait with a lot of history. It’s actually a pretty epic place to live. They have a cable car that takes you over the city for an epic night view. Not to mention I love seafood and it is renowned for its morning market (Hakodate Asaichi) and seafood dishes.
 

The Japanese English teachers took me out to a welcoming party or 'enkai' where I got to eat sashimi, fried chicken (their fried chicken can test that of the Caribbean) and drank sake. It was hilarious good humouredly making fun of Japanese people’s demure expressions. They thought my impressions were amusing and spot on for only having been in the school for one week. It seems that all cultures ‘loosen up’ when alcohol is flowing and that the stereotype of the stoic, serious Japanese is proving to be false. I find the people at work and in the street to be friendly and curious when I walk by.
 

The single, most heartwarming story that I want to tell happened to me my first week of actual teaching, 21st August. I was on my way to the grocery and could see that it was going to rain, so I took my umbrella and raincoat. Indeed the rain really started to pelt down, forcing me to stop outside a little store and shelter under the eaves. The man inside gestured from where he was sitting for me to come in. I kindly thanked him but said I was fine. In less than a minute, it started to rain even harder. This time, the said gentleman got up from where he was sitting and came to get me with a “dozo, dozo”. Having made him get up from his chair, I left my umbrella at the door, wiped my sneakers as best as I could and entered his rice and grain shop. Immediately his wife came hurrying out and I found a warm bowl of rice and chicken placed in my hands. I sat at a little table, where there was also a cup of coffee waiting for me. For roughly 15 minutes we conversed in my very elementary Japanese. I left feeling really overwhelmed by their kindness and genuine friendliness.
 

Although I am pretty much on my own in Hakodate, I have been making friends, both English speaking and Japanese. At first, I was just way too busy sorting out school, house, legal stuff, but after one month in Japan, I feel like life has finally started to settle down. I went on a hike with the ladies from the community centre who teach free Japanese classes and tea ceremony (sado), where I get the honor of feeling like a bull in a china shop. The hike was a lot of fun, being able to see the ocean makes my island heart happy.
 

On 6th September, 2018, Hokkaido experienced a magnitude 6.9 earthquake. The epicenter was not close to where I lived. However, the island experienced a blackout which forced me to spend my Thursday eating all my perishables. People really banded together; the teachers at my school made sure to check in on me. They were really amused by my relaxed, calm attitude. I told them that Caribbean people learn to take many hardships in stride, and being forced to eat all your ice cream in one day is really not a hardship.
 

Japan is a country that survives through many natural disasters, typhoons, earthquakes, and their earlier devastating floods. They are constantly reminded that Mother Nature is beyond our control. Japan really is a country where nature demands ones respect.
 

All in all, I feel safe here and independent. As a female, I don’t have to put up with hecklers when I walk in the streets, and the place is very clean. My students now say hello to me first when they see me outside of school. I recently did a visit to a blind school, which left me feeling awed and humbled. I have tentatively put out the idea to my base school, of having a Caribbean curry event for the school festival next year. My students are making plans to help me build my first snowman. I am excited to discover Hokkaido, it’s not a first choice when tourists think of Japan, but as my South African predecessor has assured me, I’m in an ideal spot to experience and live the real Japan, to gain an in depth understanding of my new home.



JET Series: Shipped - A Hakodate Story (Japanese Embassy's Facebook)


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